New York’s Brief Hot Restaurant Summer: Bread Binges and Tabletop Coke

As the Covid-19 vaccines rolled out in the spring, many New Yorkers anticipated a summer filled with rampant pleasure and maskless debauchery. The overwhelming energy was: We’re off the hook, and it’s time to party.

Restaurant staffs and owners braced themselves for a rush of guest turnout, mile-long drink bills and raucous behavior. And, for a brief, shining moment, they got it. Through June and July, the kind of New Yorkers who treat restaurants as nightlife had the hot vax summer they were promised. The pent-up desire to go out, eat and drink with abandon, and stay out until all hours was sated. In that fleeting moment of apparent safety — before the Delta variant became such a threat, and masks returned — dining out was a joyful and unburdened experience.

“We overstaffed in the beginning because we thought we wouldn’t be able to keep up with the demand,” said Max Stampa-Brown, the beverage director of the bar Bandits in the West Village. “We were afraid we wouldn’t be able to keep up. We were looking at each other like, ‘Whoa, this is going to be crazy. This is going to be way bigger than we imagined.’”

As Bandits fully reopened for indoor dining in May — requiring guests to show vaccine cards a few weeks ahead of the citywide mandate — Mr. Stampa-Brown felt guests’ excitement mingled with some trepidation. “It was kind of lovely watching people be this new version of themselves and make mistakes like you’re at a high school prom every night.”

After that initial awkwardness, the party was on.

“With a lack of inhibition and a lack of social decorum comes a sense of wanting to be as extra as humanly possible for the sake of catching up on lost time,” Mr. Stampa-Brown said. He’d expected more of a sit-and-eat crowd through the summer, but watched as Bandits became a late-night dance spot before his eyes — the bar filling up when the disco ball turned on every night at 10 p.m.

Kevol Graham, who co-owns the Caribbean restaurant Kokomo in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, with his wife, Ria Graham, said that opening indoors and allowing bar seating created a convivial environment between strangers, an element of New York dining that was wiped out entirely by the pandemic.

“Now that people are allowed to go to the bar, there’s more socializing,” Mr. Graham said. “People are more comfortable asking other tables or asking someone at the bar, ‘Hey, what is that you’re drinking?’”

Caroline Schiff, the executive pastry chef at the Downtown Brooklyn steakhouse Gage & Tollner, also saw months of anxiety give way to excitement. “In those glorious first weeks, people would put in a note in their reservations or talk to their server like, ‘It’s our first meal out now that we’re fully vaccinated,’ and people were coming out to celebrate that,” she said.

Eric Sze, an owner of the Taiwanese restaurant 886 on St. Marks Place in Manhattan, was amazed at the energy that materialized when it reopened fully. “People were throwing parties for no reason,” he said. “‘Party for 20? What’s the occasion?’ ‘Oh, I just miss my friends.’ It was every night, every week, for a solid month and a half.”

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And those parties didn’t hold back. “The first day we opened indoor dining in the spring, the very first night, a six-top sat inside and started doing coke on the table middinner,” Mr. Sze said. “We weren’t even mad. We were like, ‘Welcome back!’”

Guests’ checks were also higher than ever. “People were spending money like never before,” Mr. Sze said. The vibe was, he said, “‘I’m over-ordering food, I want everything on the menu, and a sake bomb to begin with.’”

Ms. Schiff agreed. “Almost every table is like: Raw bar, bread, appetizer, entree and dessert. That’s a really indulgent, exciting, celebratory way to eat.”

The shift was most apparent to Ms. Schiff at Gage & Tollner’s pastry station. The $24 baked alaska for two, once described by the New York Times restaurant critic Pete Wells as a “brown blob the size of a well-fed house cat,” was an even bigger hit than their team had hoped. “I’ve never sold dessert like this before,” Ms. Schiff said. “It kind of shocked all of us. Whatever we projected for dessert sales, it almost doubled. It was insane.”

In fact, large-format desserts became a theme on menus this summer. There was a sundae for two at the Williamsburg brasserie Francie, which opened briefly before the pandemic and subsequently closed until February 2021. At the new Momofuku Ssam Bar at the South Street Seaport, guests were encouraged to share extra large bowls of bingsu. Carne Mare, also at the South Street Seaport, added a baked spumoni for two to the menu this summer. There was a another baked alaska for two, at Nat’s on Bank in the West Village. And at Tokyo Record Bar in Greenwich Village, a towering sake-drenched kakigori was served for the entire table to share.

Understand Vaccine and Mask Mandates in the U.S.

    • Vaccine rules. On Aug. 23, the Food and Drug Administration granted full approval to Pfizer-BioNTech’s coronavirus vaccine for people 16 and up, paving the way for an increase in mandates in both the public and private sectors. Private companies have been increasingly mandating vaccines for employees. Such mandates are legally allowed and have been upheld in court challenges.
    • Mask rules. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention in July recommended that all Americans, regardless of vaccination status, wear masks in indoor public places within areas experiencing outbreaks, a reversal of the guidance it offered in May. See where the C.D.C. guidance would apply, and where states have instituted their own mask policies. The battle over masks has become contentious in some states, with some local leaders defying state bans.
    • College and universities. More than 400 colleges and universities are requiring students to be vaccinated against Covid-19. Almost all are in states that voted for President Biden.
    • Schools. Both California and New York City have introduced vaccine mandates for education staff. A survey released in August found that many American parents of school-age children are opposed to mandated vaccines for students, but were more supportive of mask mandates for students, teachers and staff members who do not have their shots.  
    • Hospitals and medical centers. Many hospitals and major health systems are requiring employees to get a Covid-19 vaccine, citing rising caseloads fueled by the Delta variant and stubbornly low vaccination rates in their communities, even within their work force.
    • New York City. Proof of vaccination is required of workers and customers for indoor dining, gyms, performances and other indoor situations, although enforcement does not begin until Sept. 13. Teachers and other education workers in the city’s vast school system will need to have at least one vaccine dose by Sept. 27, without the option of weekly testing. City hospital workers must also get a vaccine or be subjected to weekly testing. Similar rules are in place for New York State employees.
    • At the federal level. The Pentagon announced that it would seek to make coronavirus vaccinations mandatory for the country’s 1.3 million active-duty troops “no later” than the middle of September. President Biden announced that all civilian federal employees would have to be vaccinated against the coronavirus or submit to regular testing, social distancing, mask requirements and restrictions on most travel.

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